caulk and weather stripping go a long way in saving you money on winter heating bills

A little caulk and weather stripping go a long way in saving you money on winter heating bills

Nov 1, 2010Daily Press (Newport News, Va.)
Kathy Van Mullekom
Nov. 1, 2010 (McClatchy-Tribune Regional News delivered by Newstex) --

Minor oversights around a house can add up to major drains on your pocketbook, especially when it comes to the little things that make utility bills skyrocket.

"Air sealing is the key to significant reduction because we lose 31 percent of the air from our homes through floors, walls and ceilings," says Jamison Brown of AmeriSpec Home Inspection Services in Poquoson.

For instance, a crack as small as 1/16 of an inch around a window frame can let in as much cold air as leaving the window open three inches, according to Virginia Natural Gas.

The solution: Caulk and weather strip around exterior doors and windows to help eliminate cold-air sources. New this year is temporary caulking you easily peel off in spring.

Older homes can allow air from the crawl space to enter the living space if the gap between the floor and the bottom of the walls has not been sealed, something that's typically done in new home construction, according to Robert Criner of Criner Remodeling in York County. If you have light-colored carpet that's tinged darker around the outer edges, you know you have that kind of leak.

The solution: When you replace the carpet, run a bead of caulking along that gap before installing new carpet; if the carpeting is still good, pull up the trim and carpet edge, run the caulking, put the carpet back and replace the trim board.

Even electrical outlets allow cold air to enter your warm rooms. The next time the wind blows or cold air rolls into town put your hand over an electrical outlet on an exterior wall and you may be surprised at what you feel.

The solution: There are precut insulation pads you can buy at hardware and home stores to put in those outlets.

What's under or over your living space also impacts your energy bill, items like ductwork. Supply ductwork from your furnace can leak heated air into the attic or crawl space, and outside air can be drawn into the return ductwork, increasing costs and reducing your comfort, according to Dominion (NYSE:D) Power.

The solution: Inspect ductwork to make sure it's sealed at joints and intersections with foil-backed tape or silicone caulking. You also want to make sure ductwork is not kinked.

Many people, especially empty-nesters, also live in large houses where some rooms are not used. Why heat rooms you don't use?

The solution: During winter, close the registers in the room and use a foam "twin draft guard" under the door, like the $9.95 versions you see advertised on TV or in home stores. "They are cheap and they work," says Criner.

Rebates and assistance

To help households improve their energy efficiency, Virginia Natural Gas offers free programmable thermostats and a $50 rebate on a seasonal service to keep heating equipment running at peak performance. You can also get rebates of $150 on a high-efficiency tank water heater, $500 on a tankless water heater and $500 on a 90 percent or higher efficiency furnace.

Tax credits for energy-efficiency items like windows, roofs and insulation expire at the end of this year and must be installed by then, according to Criner.

Financially struggling households can apply for Energy Assistance programs through social services departments in cities and counties or online at http://www.dss.virginia.gov/benefit/ea/index.cgi

Save even more

Here are more winterizing and household energy-use tips from Jamison Brown and Michael Hatchett of Hatchett Design, Remodel and Repair in Newport News:

-- Caulk all exterior joints and gaps, including around dryer vents and joints in siding

-- Make sure door weather stripping seals when the door is closed.

-- Set your water heater to 120 Fahrenheit and install a water heater insulation blanket; read the label on the water heater to see if a blanket is suitable.

-- Install at least 6 feet of insulation on both the hot and cold water pipes attached to the water heater; caution should be used for gas water heaters with hot vent pipes.

-- Seal ceiling openings in the attic around electrical wires, plumbing pipes and bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan and associated piping.

-- Pull-down stairs need to be sealed or a tent placed over them in the attic to prevent air leakage and energy loss. You can build or buy one. Also, attic access scuttles and doors need to be sealed and insulated.

-- Bathroom vents and dryer exhausts and fireplaces should have a damper to ensure warm air is not unintentionally leaking from the home when those appliances are not being used. Most new bathroom vents have a damper unit already installed in the fan.

-- Review attic insulation and install additional insulating to bring it to R-38 factor after you have sealed any air leaks and insulated any pipes in that area.

-- Build air-tight covers for all recessed ceiling lights that are visible in the attic to prevent air leaks; use caution to ensure a fire hazard is not created by the light boxes; http://www.ehow.com features a piece on insulating these fixtures.

-- Finally, set back the thermostat, or turn down the heat while you are away at work. It takes less energy to warm a cool home than to maintain a warm temperature all day long.

Online

-- See a "How to Caulk Windows for Dummies" video at http://www.dailypress.com/digginblog

-- Calculate your home's energy efficiency and find rebates, special offers and more conservation tips through Virginia Natural Gas at http://www.virginianaturalgas.com and Dominion Power at http://www.dom.com. Also, visit the U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Savers site at http://www.energysavers.gov

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