Green Build Bar Build Notes Suggestions Annotations

Notes-Suggestions-Ideas

I am going to mention ideas and suggestions on ways that will reduce your monthly bills in utility savings by incorporating the following examples into the Green Design of your building.  My suggestions will include: PV Solar Electric, Solar Water Heating, and Energy Conservation.  

The greatest use of your investment dollars will come by installing Insulation in the various parts of your building.

 

As a general rule it is cheaper to save energy than it is to create energy.  

It does not matter if this is in gas or electric. Basically: If you can save it you don’t have to make it.

The Department of Energy suggests for our region various levels of insulation

Ceiling: R38 - R60

Walls: R13 -R19

Floor: R25 - R30 

Examples of where to insulate. 1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below. If the air distribution is in the attic space, then consider insulating the rafters to move the distribution into the conditioned space. (1A) attic access door 2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate (2A) between the studs of "knee" walls, (2B) between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof, (2C) and ceilings with cold spaces above. (2D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows. 3. All exterior walls, including (3A) walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas; (3B) foundation walls above ground level; (3C) foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior. 4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate (4A) any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below; (4B) slab floors built directly on the ground; (4C) as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of unvented crawl spaces. (4D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows. 5. Band joists. 6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors. Source: Oak Ridge National Laboratory

Following the above guides let's focus in on the areas that we discussed: Ceiling, Floor, Walls.

Ceiling:

1565 sq feet of estimated roof (see solar estimate).  Normal Ceilings are constructed with 2x12 lumber.  That is not enough space to provide adequate insulation with normal batt type insulation to meet the suggested level of R60.

My suggestions are:

• Put the Insulation on top of the roof eliminating any insulation in the cavities.  As we talked about I feel that when the Insulation is on the outside is like a person having a coat on.  It eliminates the hot or cold from entering.  
• Commercial Buildings utilize this type of insulation to stop the cold/heat from getting to the steel, because when the steel gets hot or cold it expands/contracts and is a big energy problem.
• They also make this in tapered sections to direct water easily.
• Exposed Roof System for Aesthetic purposes

I used Menards for a guide.  I suggest go to: the Roofing place at Vandeventer/44 area.  The old RSG under new owners. Johns Manville R-23.6 4" x 4' x 8' Fiberglass Face Polyiso Roof Decking Insulation Model Number: 1631150 Johns Manville R-17.4 3" x 4' x 8' Fiberglass Face Polyiso Roof Decking Insulation Model Number: 1631149 Johns Manville R-11.4 2" x 4' x 8' Fiberglass Face Polyiso Roof Decking Insulation Model Number: 1631147 Volume Pricing of $25.59 / ea- 24 units or more.

Floors:

• Suggested R Value 25.  Use 8 in Batt or Spray Foam Insulation.  8 Inch batt would be cheapest but not necessarily the best.

Green Possibility: It is possible to install a heated flooring system that would eliminate the need for HVAC heat system.  This type of flooring system is called radiant heating.  The heating is accomplished using electricity to heat wires, heat mats or tubes with liquid that is heated by electricity, solar, or gas.  

• Radiant Flooring systems warm the floor and the heat rises into the rooms.  This also eliminates cold spots hvac fail to work in.
• The use of this may depend on the final floor choice selected.  If it was going to be a tile floor I say yes.  Maybe not a good idea if a finished wood floor is chosen-discussion needed.  If you chose to install a concrete floor I definitely suggest a radiant floor heating system.

Walls:

• For a total Green Aspect (but not $ viable suggestion) Exterior insulation would once again be suggested.  Leaving you the option of utilizing the interior brick walls for aesthetic and old world design purposes.
• This same type insulation can be used on the inside but has to be covered to meet fire code.  1/2In Sheetrock.
• The Money saver is to build 2x4 framed walls with normal batt insulation and sheetrock.  But you loose the kool looking brick look.
• This is a final design choice you have to make.

Additional Points for consideration:

• Hot Water could be heated during the daytime easily with Solar.  I suggest an instant type heater installed for use when needed.  
• Liquid radiant flooring systems can be heated by Solar, tied into what ever system is used, or be independent with their own broiler system.
• Instant heaters without solar would require ½ the amount of pipes needed.  Only one cold water pipe to the fixture is needed.
• I work with Dale Or and Suzie with “Master Plumbers StLouis” permits and as my go to person to call for advice.
• I would like to introduce you to Slim Shady, Shady Jack’s son.  He is the one who built Shady Jacks and the 15+ bars they owned previously.  He knows his stuff about building bars and these old buildings.
• Everything in your place is going to use electricity.  Put in extra electric boxes or places to connect future lines.
• Along the same lines.  Buying Energy Star Rated Kitchen equipment when you can is a smart investment.
• Upgrades to electrical motors and fans on commercial equipment qualify for discounts from Ameren UE.

Solar:

1,565 sq ft estimate roof space from a couple of solar measuring satellite images- The “net cost” price quoted in the 3rd image is way off the mark.  Your system would be cheaper.

  

Notes:

• Using satellite imagery for determining roof size and using an electric bill of $400 / month.  Solar PV would cover the 50% or up to $200 per month.  $200 x 12 months = $2,400 yearly savings. 22 KW system
• Bill Size $500 Solar would cover 40%
• Additional Solar Panels could be installed on the West Wall of the Building- capture the afternoon sunlight.
• Additional Solar Panels could be used to create Open Air Spaces below where people could gather.  See picture above.
• Pole Mount systems picture above in the background.

• I’ve considered many things for your building.  The above suggestions would be my first choices and places that would save you money and create a green building to capture all the tax and other benefits available.  
• I welcome further discussion about anything I’ve mentioned and also assisting you with the renovations.
• For detailed and specific estimates I need to see: blueprints, design notes, floor plans.
• I have Green Building Financing Resources that may work to your benefit they will assist in: Solar PV and Water, Energy Conservation, Windows, Doors, Insulation, etc.

Thank You for stopping by the Green Blog. If additional information in needed or you have a question let me know by posting a question or comment. Together we can make a difference and create a future that will benefit everyone.

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Design Build Update on Shady Jacks Saloon New Bar Design

Both the Owner and Myself were very satisfied with both the design and build of the New Bar Design for Shady Jacks Saloon and Deli in Downtown StLouis MO.

The first photo in this green blog post is the final CAD drawing of the project after the Waitress Station and Center Shelving was added to the project.

Previous CAD Photos and details:

• CAD Design- Shady Jacks Saloon New Bar Design by Scotts Contracting  
• CAD Bar Designs-Before Photos with CAD Drawing

View the Entire Photo for the New 

Bar Design at Shady Jacks Saloon Here

Waitress Station and Center Shelving Added to the Design Build Project 

Before the Waitress Station was added to the New Bar Design 

Shady Jacks Saloon-New Bar and Waitress Station-Stocked and Loaded and Ready to Serve 

Waitress Station for the New Bar Design at Shady Jacks Saloon 

Here's what people are saying about the New Bar Design:

• Patrons:

• Love the New Look- Natural Looking  
• Makes the Bar Look Bigger
• Design Blends with the Asthetics of the Bar
• Faster Drink Orders from Staff

• Bartenders:

• New Bar Design is User Friendly 
• Easier Access to Supplies  
• Able to Fill Customer Orders Faster and Efficiently!

• Waitress Staff:

• Easier Access to Needed Supplies
• User Friendly
• Makes Filling Drink Orders Faster (which increases their TIPS!)

• From the Owner-Shady Jack:

• New Design Opens the Bar up and makes it look bigger
• User Friendly Design helps bartenders to better handle the customers orders
• Functionality was added to the project for access to the New Beverage Dispensors
• Very Pleased with the: Natural Look, Functionality, and Form

Here are the main goals of the project that were accomplished from the New Bar Design:

1. Added Spots for the New Beverage Dispensers and Coolers
2. Functionality for the Bartenders to meet the the increased customer base
3. Any Additions must Blend in with Current Surroundings!

Here's what made this a True Green Build Project-All the Lumber was either from waste leftover from a Lumber Mill in the St Louis Area or Up-cycled from previous buildings in the St Louis Area

Come View the Bars New Design for yourself at Shady Jacks Saloon and Deli-1432 N. BROADWAY DOWNTOWN, ST. LOUIS MO 2 BLOCKS NORTH OF LUMIERE CASINO. THE ORIGINAL BIKER BAR! OVER 16 YEARS OF BUSINESS. see map


4/1/2013 Some of the Lumber was purchased from: Bruce at American Timber Salvage Inc-2100 N 2nd Street St Louis MO 63102

Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotts Contracting- St Louis Home Improvement Projects and Energy Reducing Needs Get Your Green Building Tips and Resources at St Louis Renewable Energy Green Blog

Saving a Deck From the Landfill Part 2- Rebuilding the Lower Staircase

Day 3 Photos of the Structural Deck Repair- 

Rebuilding the Lower Staircase

"St Louis Building Code Department said:

 "Bring the Deck to Current Building Codes or Tear It Down" 

Part 1- Saving a Deck from the Landfill 
Part 2-Saving a Deck from the Landfill
Part 3- Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Part 2- Day 3

Lower Stair Case 1x8 Risers 2x12 Treads	Rebuilding the Lower Staircase- 2x12 Treads with 1x8 Risers
Lower Stairs Top View	Lower Stairs Top View
Simpson Strong Tie Connector	Photo will post soon
Upper Stairs 1x8 Risers 2x12 Treads	Upper Stairs Side View 2x12 Treads with 1x8 Risers

Part 1- Saving a Deck from the Landfill 
Part 2-Saving a Deck from the Landfill
Part 3- Saving a Deck from the Landfill will post soon


Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy Green Blog. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotty at the new company website http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.com for any Home Improvement Projects or Energy Reducing Needs and Scotty, Scotts Contracting will respond ASAP.

Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Deck Repair by Scotty-Scotts Contracting, St Louis Renewable Energy

Because the Deck was not built to current Building Codes the St Louis Building Code Department required- 

"Bring the Deck to Current Building Codes or Tear it Down"

1. Structural Site Inspection and Documentation of Needed Repairs of the Deck by an Architectural Engineer,
2. Obtain a Repair Permit (based on the Engineers findings) for the needed repairs,
3. Structurally reinforce the existing deck to the Suggestions made by the Architectural Engineer,
4. Repair other areas that are in disrepair
5. Have the added “Structural Work” Inspected by the St Louis Building Code Official
6. Power Wash and Paint
7. Final Inspection by the St Louis Building Code Official and Property Owner

Part 1- Saving a Deck from the Landfill 

Part 2-Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Part 3- Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Day 1 Work Photos

Add ½ in by 8in Lag Bolts at 16in OC at Joist House Connection to existing 3/8 in Lag Bolts	Add ½ in by 8in Lag Bolts at 16in OC at Joist House Connection to existing 3/8 in Lag Bolts, Scotts Contracting, St Louis Renewable Energy
Additional Photo of Added Lag Bolts to Joist Wall Connection	Additional Photo of Added Lag Bolts to Joist Wall Connection
Lag Bolts at 16in OC the Entire Length of the Joist	Lag Bolts at 16in OC the Entire Length of the Joist
Temporary Support for Safety and to make sure the Deck Stays True and Plumb while we added the Double 2x8 Main Support Beam Note: I don't really think the Deck would have collapsed onto the crew while working on the Main Support but for Peace of Mind I went ahead and installed a Temporary 2x4 Post and Beam.	Temporary Support for Safety
Note: Simpson Strong Tie Connector- Post Beam Connection on 2 Center Posts Outer Post utilize 2- 1/2 x 8in Bolt, Nut, Washer	Simpson Strong Tie Connector- Post Beam Connection on 2 Center Posts

Day 2 Work Photos

Upper Stairs and New Deck Boards 3- 2x12 Stair Stringers 7 3/4in Risers 10 in Tread	Upper Stairs and New Deck Boards
Upper Stairs New Deck Boards New Upper Railing	Upper Stairs,New Deck Boards,New Upper Railing
Removing Lower Stair Case	Removing Lower Stair Case
Adding 2x8 to Existing Double 2x8 Joist- 3 Total 2x8- Combination of 16 Galvanized Nails, Screws, Glued, and 2-1/2 x 8in Bolt, Nut, Washer	Adding 2x8 to Existing Double 2x8 Joist- 3 Total 2x8- Combination of 16 Galvanized Nails, Screws, Glued, and 2-1/2 x 8in Bolt, Nut, Washer

Scotty-Scotts Contracting, St Louis Renewable Energy

Part 1- Saving a Deck from the Landfill 

Part 2-Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Part 3- Saving a Deck from the Landfill

Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotty for any Home Improvement Projects or Energy Reducing Needs and Scotty, Scotts Contracting will respond ASAP.

Fixing Deck Rails on Porches, Decks, etc

One of my latest repair projects:

• The 2nd Floor deck support rail was leaning away from the building creating a Safety Issue for anyone who leaned on the Support Rail.  
• I used a Ratcheting Tie Down Strap to pull the deck support rail straight.  (In the following diagram you will see the connection points for Plumbing up the deck rail on the 2nd Story Deck.)
• After the Support Rail was re-plumbed I reattached the connection point at the Buildings Masonry wall with 4- 3/8 x 5 1/2 Lags and Masonry Anchors, spaced at 8in OC.

Apply Tension and Pull Towards Building

Scotty Adding 3" Deck Type Screws to Secure Support Rail to Deck

• I also replaced the original nails that had pulled loose with 3" Deck Screws
• I then added a 2x4x14' to hold the Deck Rail into position.  (See Action Photo Above)

Anchor to Wall w/ Lag Screws and Concrete Anchors

Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotty for any Home Improvement Projects or Energy Reducing Needs and Scotty, Scotts Contracting will respond ASAP.

Green Building Tips-Long Haul Durability

Green Building Priority #6 – Ensure Durability

Number 6 in my list of the top-10 green building priorities is to ensure that the home is durably built or renovated.

Posted on Oct 13 by Alex Wilson

Deep overhangs and standing-seam roofing are among the features of the homes at Cobb Hill Cohousing that will help to ensure a long life.

A green home should last a long time. Living in a timber-frame home in Dummerston, Vermont that was built in 1785 and having grown up in a log home in Berwyn, Pennsylvania that was built in 1710 (three centuries ago this year), I think a lot about durability. It shocks me to realize that some of the homes being built today are designed for just a fifty-year lifespan. I feel that homes should last a minimum of 500 years. My friend (and leading building science expert) Joe Lstiburek once told me that a well-designed home today should last 1,000 years.

Creating durable homes involves a two-part effort: the first is designing it right with proper construction details; the second is selecting durable products and materials.

Use construction details that control moisture

Careful design and construction is the top priority in creating a more durable home—and often the most important issue is how we manage moisture. This is a big part of the focus of "building science." The building enclosure (walls, foundation, roof) has to be designed to a) keep moisture out, and b) allow any moisture that does get in to dry out. As we have made our homes tighter and better-insulated over the past several decades, this has become even more important. (The leaky, unheated homes our grandparents built could easily dry out because air readily flowed through the walls.)

Building science is a complex field that is evolving quickly as we learn more about moisture and air movement through buildings and building assemblies—far beyond the scope of this column. But here are some examples that will help to illustrate the concept:

• Provide deep roof overhangs to keep moisture away from the walls and foundation.
• Provide good drainage around the foundation, and slope the ground away from the house.
• Always provide a "drainage plane" or "rain screen" when designing and building walls. This air space between the siding and sheathing allows siding to dry out between rain events and prevents water vapor from being driven into the wall cavity from the exterior.
• Properly flash around windows and other wall and roof penetrations. Specialized flashing products are available to make this process a lot easier than it used to be.
• Provide an "air barrier" in the building enclosure that blocks air flow. Experts used to suggest a "vapor barrier," but blocking airflow is more important than stopping vapor diffusion. An air barrier can still be vapor-permeable, allowing moisture to escape over time.
• Avoid moisture sources in the home (for example, provide quiet bathroom fans that will be used while showering, install an outside-venting range hood fan, and in humid climates insulate even cold water pipes to prevent condensation).

Select durable products and materials

Along with design and construction, the products and materials we install in a home can influence durability. We focus a lot of attention on selecting green building materials (see my #8 priority). When a product has high recycled content, for example, it not only reduces the energy and environmental impacts of extracting the raw materials that would otherwise be required, but it also helps keep material out of the waste stream. In my opinion, though, it's an even higher priority to use very durable materials.

If material A will last three times as long as material B, we have three times as long to amortize the environmental impacts that were involved in producing that material. So even if material A took twice the energy to produce, our selection of that material will have a net benefit over the long term.

Fiber-cement siding, for example, costs a lot more than vinyl siding, but it should last a lot longer. The same goes with high-quality, standing-seam metal roofing or slate shingles, compared with asphalt shingles. There is usually a higher up-front cost for more durable materials, but that extra cost is repaid over the long term—both monetarily and environmentally.

Hire someone with expertise in building science

Very connected to the above two priorities, relative to durability, is to hire someone with expertise in building science. This applies equally to new construction and remodeling. It's complicated—and it's important that your designer and contractor understand what's involved in building (or remodeling) a home in a way that will keep it going strong for hundreds of years.

-- Scott's Contracting scottscontracting@gmail.com http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.blogspot.com http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.com scotty@stlouisrenewableenergy.com

Photos and Build Notes-Green Build Projects

Location This attractive home in Austin, looks like your standard suburban dwelling, but it's far from ordinary. The eco-minded homeowners designed a hardworking home that's built from durable materials, enlists nature to help heat and cool, and is supremely energy-efficient. Location was the first step in their green building effort. To save gas (and time), the homeowners chose infill property in a neighborhood that's conveniently close to their bank, grocery store, and children's school. Building in or near a city is inherently eco-friendly because lots, utilities, and services already exist so no energy is wasted to create something new. Building Materials Fiber-cement siding and composite wood trim (recycled from milk jugs and wood chips) resist hail, fire, rot, and insects. Limestone, used to face parts of the home's exterior, is inexpensive and plentiful in Austin. It requires less energy to produce than a material such as brick. Metal Roof & Overhangs The Galvalume metal roof is made from post-industrial recycled steel. It resists cracking and corrosion, and its light color deflects heat. The home's overhangs extend 3-5 feet to provide summer shading. Another bonus: The homeowners don't have to clean the windows very often. Screen Porch The porch is positioned to capture southeasterly breezes. When doors to the living room are open, the incoming breezes can travel across the room and up the stairwell, where warmer air is released through electrically operated windows. Airflow A raised stone fireplace in the living room brings heat to where it's most welcome when the family gathers here: the height of the seat cushions. Flooring Linoleum and oak flooring found throughout the home are durable, are easy to clean, and reflect light. Linoleum is made from natural materials. The oak flooring is a smart choice because it's plentiful and affordable. And the homeowners don't have to worry that they're expending energy to import an exotic wood. Water Heater In addition to providing hot water, the water heater also handles space-heating needs with a radiant floor hydronic system. Appliances Energy Star-rated appliances, which are high-quality products verified to be more efficient than nonrated appliances, help to keep utility bills low. Open Floor Plan On the main level, only the guest room, bath, and home office are enclosed. The open plan offers reduced energy consumption (air circulates naturally throughout the space) and less use of building materials. Cooling System Two air-conditioning systems allow for independent zoning of each floor. This makes for better control of comfort, less energy consumption, and greater flexibility as living needs change over time. Digital programmable thermostats sense humidity in the house and correct the level when needed. Siting Key windows are oriented to capture breezes -- the most effective strategy to save on cooling costs in a climate dominated by air-conditioning. Article Continues at- Why It Pays to Go Green, By Denise Gee  http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/remodeling/eco-friendly/why-it-pays-to-go-green/?page=12 Changes You Can Make Today Follow these tips to make your home more high-performance -- saving both energy and money in the long run: -- Trade incandescent for fluorescent and LED lightbulbs. -- Add insulation to attic flooring, and if possible, to walls. -- Replace toilets and showerheads with low-flow ones and upgrade appliances to those that are Energy Star-certified. -- Repair or replace ductwork to ensure the home is properly sealed. -- Shade windows prone to excess light with awnings and make sure all windows are weathertight. build green, Scotty Scotts Contracting, St Louis Renewable Energy --Build a Green St Louis!