Scotts Contracting - StLouis Renewable Energy

6.22.2010

Green vs. Sustainable

What’s In A Word? Green vs. Sustainable posted by Ronnie Citron-Fink Jun 18, 2010 1:02 pm Hello, I saw this on Care2 and thought you'd like it as well. Care2 is the largest and most trusted information and action site for people who care to make a difference in their lives and the world. Care2.com send Do words matter? If you answered yes, then what do these terms mean? What does green mean? What does sustainable mean? Well, your guess is as good as mine. No, really…we are all exposed to so many green labels (products, homes, cars, technology, etc.) that it is no surprise that we each come to the party with different variations on the theme. We could debate until the cows come home whether or not the overuse of these two words still hold any value. Or, even how far we need to go to get there. I would like to believe green and sustainable do have value. It seems even more important, as the grim realizations of our dependency on oil in the Gulf has become a painful indication that we need to get our act together and change our ways for the survival of our planet. It seems like the right time to revisit theses two concepts. That’s why I’m getting out my magnifying glass and taking a closer look at the process of living a green or more sustainable life. On a surface level, green means environmentally-friendly. Which is to say that whatever the origin of the product, home, clothing company, etc. is, it places less of a burden on our declining natural resources of land, air and water. Green also encompasses less waste. How much less? Well, that seems be on a spectrum that can become the basis for wonderful new ways to live. But, it can also open us up to the ugly, gray world of greenwashing. Sustainability carries both a broader and narrower meaning. On the broader sense, it references how we are all inter-connected and how we work together towards our collective future. All of our economic, political and social gains in this area thus far, have come from a heightened awareness of what is sustainable for the future. On a narrow level, sustainability is far more encompassing than green. It addresses the individual environmental choices, and the process of discovery that include the health and wellbeing of our selves as individuals, and our planet. Knowing this, we must be aware that our decisions towards what will make us sustainable right now just may determine how our children, our grandchildren, and beyond will live. We learn very simple new ways of addressing and discovering new ways to become greener (or more sustainable) on an individual level everyday. In fact, last night I was preparing whole wheat pasta for dinner and thought, “Couldn’t I cook the pasta with less water, saving energy and water?” Not being the most accomplished cook, I generally follow rock star cooks. What would Mario Butali, and all those others wonderful Italian cooks think? Butali says for every pound of pasta, we need to boil six quarts of water. I checked around online and found a New York Times article that outlined experiments that addressed the question of cooking pasta with less water. Here’s what it found: “Americans cook something like a billion pounds of pasta a year, so those minutes could add up…rough figuring indicates an energy savings at the stovetop of several trillion B.T.U.s. At the power plant, that would mean saving 250,000 to 500,000 barrels of oil, or $10 million to $20 million at current prices.” Wow, those are significant numbers for such a small individual act. Oh yeah, the pasta was just as tasty with less water. We discover zillions of stories like this each day. Is there a lesson in the pasta story? Maybe becoming sustainable is the part of the process of living a green lifestyle. Or, maybe sustainability is finding answers to those questions that will guild us towards a new eco-enlightenment. I don’t have the ultimate answer, but I sure hope we figure it out for our future generations. As we continue to move towards making collective, ethical choices about the condition of our planet that we want to leave our children, should we be taking these two words to heart? What does green and sustainable mean to you? Are they mutually exclusive? Do you have a personal story of eco-enlightenment? Ronnie Citron-Fink is a writer and educator. Ronnie regularly writes about sustainable living for online sites and magazines. Along with being the creator of www.econesting.com, Ronnie has contributed to numerous books about green home design, DIY, children, and humor. Ronnie lives the Hudson Valley of New York with her family.

Low-Cost Tips for Reducing Home Heating and Cooling Costs

Homeowners can significantly reduce their utility bills by making simple, low-cost home improvements, as described below. For more tips, visit the U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Savers Web site at www.energysavers.gov.
Keeping Out the Elements:

Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.
Caulk and seal air leaks where ducting, plumbing, light fixtures or electrical wiring penetrates through exterior walls, floors and ceilings.
Install rubber gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.
As a less costly and less permanent alternative, you can use a heavy-duty, clear plastic sheet on a frame or tape clear plastic film to the inside of your window frames during the cold winter months. Remember, the plastic must be sealed tightly to the frame to help reduce infiltration.
During cold-weather months, keep the draperies and shades on your south-facing windows open during the day to allow sunlight to enter your home. Keep these draperies and shades closed at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows. In warm-weather months, keep the window coverings closed during the day to prevent solar gain.
WARNING: Prior to reducing the air infiltration of a home, all gas burning appliances need to be checked for proper burner operation and the furnace heat exchanger needs to be tested for leaks. Failure to do so may cause elevated carbon monoxide levels in the home.

Sources of Air Leaks in Your Home:

1) Dropped Ceiling
2) Recessed light
3) Attic Entrance
4) Sill plates
5) Water and Furnace Flues
6) All ducts

7) Door frames
8) Chimney flashing
9) Window frames
10) Electrical outlets and switches
11) Plumbing and utilities access

Caulking
Caulking is an easy, energy-saving project you can do yourself. It is relatively inexpensive - and very effective. In fact, it will usually pay for itself in energy savings within one year. Caulk is a compound used for filling cracks, holes, crevices and joints on both the inside and outside of your home. You will need only a few simple tools and a minimum of skill to caulk these areas. Start at the back of your house and work toward the front so that your skill level is improved by the time you caulk places that are visible.

Try to choose a mild day to tackle this project. The outside temperature should be above 40°F for the caulk to be applied correctly. So, plan to caulk during the spring, summer or fall for best results. Old, cracked caulk should be removed before new is applied. Check your home repair center for a "puttying tool" that will make the job easier and provide a more professional look.

Where to Caulk
As a general rule, caulk should be applied wherever two different building materials meet on the interior or exterior of your home. Different building materials expand and contract at various rates. Through the years, with temperature extremes and caulk drying out, cracks develop between materials. Because these cracks allow air infiltration, the cracks need to be caulked.

On the interior of your home, you can check for air leakage by moving your hand around the windows and doors on a windy day. If you can feel air movement, you need to caulk and/or weatherstrip. You will probably be surprised to find how many spots are "air leakers!"

The following are areas that should be checked:

1. Around door and window frames - inside and out; check window pane putty.

2. Places where brick and wood siding meet.

3. Joints between the chimney and siding.

4. Between the foundation and walls.

5. Around mail chutes.

6. Around electrical and gas service entrances, cable T.V. and phone lines, and outdoor water faucets.

7. Where dryer vents pass through walls.

8. Cracks in bricks, siding, stucco and foundation.

9. Around air conditioners.

10. Around vents and fans.

11. Wherever two different materials meet.

The material used in sealing air leaks depends on the size of the gaps and where they are located. Caulk is best for cracks and gaps less than 1/4" wide. Expanding foam sealant is good for sealing larger cracks and holes that are protected from sunlight and moisture. Rigid foam insulation may be used for sealing very large openings such as plumbing chases and attic hatch covers. Fiberglass insulation can also be used for sealing large holes, but it needs to be wrapped in plastic or stuffed in plastic bags because air can leak through fiberglass.

Types of Caulking Compounds

Compound	Durability	Elasticity	Cost	Comments
Oil based	1-5 yrs	Poor	Low	Very low elasticity.
Acrylic latex	2-10 yrs	Fair to good	Moderate	Easy to apply, water clean-up, paintable.
Butyl rubber	5-10 yrs	Fair	Moderate	Difficult to apply, solvent clean-up, high moisture resistance.
Polyurethane	20 yrs	Excellent	Moderate	Solvent clean-up, excellent elasticity, to high adheres well to most surfaces.
Silicone	20 yrs+	Excellent	High	Paintable silicone available; also available in clear.

Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning:

For gas appliances, look for blue flames; yellow flames indicate the gas is burning inefficiently and an adjustment may be needed. Consult your manufacturer or your local utility.
Replace or clean furnace air filter(s) once a month. Have your furnace serviced before each heating season to ensure it is operating safely and efficiently.
Manually turn your thermostat down to the lowest comfortable setting. Lower your thermostat from 72 degrees to 65 degrees for eight hours a day to save up to 10% on your heating bill. Use thermostat setback strategies when the home is unoccupied or when occupants are sleeping. (Setback may not be appropriate with heat pumps. Check with the equipment supplier or your service company).
Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they're not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans wisely; in just 1 hour, these fans can pull out a houseful of warmed or cooled air. Turn fans off as soon as they have done the job.
Keep your fireplace damper closed tightly when not in use.

Water:

Repair leaky faucets promptly; a leaky faucet wastes gallons of water in a short period.
Install water-saving showerheads and faucet aerators.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater to 120 degrees.
Wrap your water heater with an insulated jacket. On electric water heaters, be careful not to cover the thermostat. On gas water heaters, be careful not to cover the water heater's top, bottom, thermostat, or burner compartment; when in doubt, get professional help.

Hot Water Savings

Fix any hot water leaks promptly.
Install high-efficiency showerheads. The Energy Policy Act of 1992 mandates that any showerhead manufactured after January 1, 1994, must not be more than a 2.5 gallon-per-minute (gpm) flow (at 80 psi). Some showerheads have valves that allow water shut-off at the shower head without losing temperature mix.
Low-flow faucet aerators for the kitchen are covered in the same legislation. They reduce flow to 2.5 gpm.
Take short showers.
Use your dishwasher wisely instead of washing dishes by hand.
Set washer cycles for the lowest temperature and water amount that will get clothes clean.
Always rinse on cold water setting.
Set water heater temperature at 120°F - 130°F.

Indoor Water Usage
The average family's indoor water usage is about 50 gallons of water per person per day. If your family's water usage is more than that amount, you need to look at your water use habits. Flushing the toilet accounts for about 42 percent of the total, bathing is 32 percent, and laundry is 14 percent. The amount of water that is used for drinking or cooking is probably less than 4 percent of the total. The Energy Policy Act of 1992 has maximum water-use standards for plumbing fixtures. Toilets manufactured after January 1, 1994, have a 1.46 gallon per flush flow (as opposed to 3.5 or 5 gallons per flush for older units), and showerheads will have a maximum flow rate of 2.5 gallons per minute. Replacing a showerhead or an older-model toilet is a good investment.

Water Usage Efficiency Hints

Fix all leaks promptly.
Don't let the water run while shaving or brushing your teeth.
Use low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators.
Take short showers and don't overfill the bathtub.
Use your dishwasher wisely instead of washing dishes by hand.
If you wash dishes by hand, don't let the water run for rinsing.
Use full loads in your dishwasher and in the washing machine.

Lighting:

Turn off the lights in any room you're not using.
Install compact fluorescent bulbs in place of existing incandescent bulbs where practical and when operation is more than two hours per day.
Use task lighting; instead of brightly lighting an entire room, focus the light where you need it.

Appliances:

Move your refrigerator out from the wall and vacuum its condenser coils once a year. Your refrigerator will run for shorter periods with clean coils.
Don't keep your refrigerator or freezer too cold. Recommended temperatures are 37° to 40°F for the fresh food compartment of the refrigerator and 5°F for the freezer section. If you have a separate freezer for long-term storage, it should be kept at 0°F.
When not in use, turn off televisions, stereos and computers. ENERGY STAR ®-labeled computers come with power management features that "power down" after a user-specified period of inactivity.

Landscaping:
Planting trees and shrubs around your home will help reduce your heating and cooling costs. How much it reduces costs depends on the choice of plants, where you locate them, the location of your home and its construction.

Trees and shrubs also reduce noise and air pollution and make your home more attractive and more valuable.

Therefore, money spent on landscaping your home is a good investment.

Winter
An unprotected home loses much more heat on a cold, windy day than on an equally cold, still day. Well-located trees and shrubs can intercept the wind and cut your heat loss. Studies of windbreaks show they can reduce winter fuel consumption by 10 percent or more. Trees and shrubs planted close to a building reduce wind currents that otherwise would chill the outside surfaces. Foundation plantings create a "dead air" space which slows the escape of heat from a building.

Foundation plantings also help reduce air infiltration losses around the foundation of the
house. Closely planted evergreens are suggested for this area.

Deciduous trees lose their leaves in the fall and allow the winter sun to enter the windows and warm the inside space. In the summer, their leaf cover provides cool shade which reduces your home's need for mechanical air conditioning.

Summer

The maximum air-conditioning need in Missouri is usually in late July and early August, and most electrical power for air conditioning will be used in the late afternoon hours. With this in mind, landscape plantings should include trees and tall shrubs to shade west-facing walls, windows, and the southwest corner of the home during the hottest summer afternoons. Quick-growing vines may be planted on trellises to provide summer shade screens while trees are growing. If there is no roof overhang to significantly reduce the effects of the sun on south walls, deciduous trees and shrubs should also be planted to shade south walls and windows.

When planting trees, choose the site carefully. Plant tall growing trees such as hickory, walnut, oak, pecan, sweetgum and pine well away from any power lines so branches do not tangle in the wires. Avoid planting trees over underground utility lines.

For More Information Contact:
Missouri Department of Natural Resources
Energy Center
P.O. Box 176
Jefferson City, MO 65102
1-800-361-4827 or (573) 751-3443
E-mail: energy@dnr.state.mo.us
Web site: www.dnr.mo.gov/energy/homeec.htm

--
Scott's Contracting
scottscontracting@gmail.com
http://stlouisrenewableenergy.blogspot.com

Missouri Weatherization Assistance Program

Program Description
Home heating is a high-cost basic necessity. For people with low incomes, the decision to pay the utility bill may mean deciding between being warm in the winter or having well-balanced meals. Other low-income people live in older homes that may not have insulation or efficient heating systems. Weatherization is a long-term response to these problems. A home that has been weatherized can reduce average annual fuel savings per dwelling by up to 13.5 percent, with electricity at 12.2 percent and natural gas at 23.4 percent, making it a cost-effective means to help low-income families with their energy bills. Lasting energy-efficient improvements are installed in the home, resulting in lower utility bills year after year. This reduces the amount of assistance needed to pay higher utility bills in low-income households.

General Program Requirements
In order to qualify for this benefit program, you must be a resident of the state of Missouri, your household's annual income before taxes must not exceed $16,245 if one person lives in the household; $21,855 if two people live in the household; $27,465 if three people live in the household; $33,075 if four people live in the household; $38,685 if five people live in the household; $44,295 if six people live in the household; $49,905 if seven people live in the household; and $55,515 if more than seven people live in the household. For larger households, add $5,610 for each additional person in the home.

Your Next Steps

The following information will lead you to the next steps to apply for this benefit.

Application Process
To apply for this program, please contact your local administering agency at the following location:
http://www.dnr.mo.gov/energy/weatherization/wxmap.htm

Program Contact Information
For more information on the program and contacts to your local weatherization agency please visit:
http://dnr.mo.gov/energy/weatherization/wx.htm

You can also call the Missouri Department of Natural Resources toll-free at:
800-361-4827

Or to ask about the Weatherization Assistance Program send e-mail to:
energy@dnr.mo.gov

Managing Agency
Missouri
http://www.mo.gov/

Subscribe to Missouri Weatherization Assistance Program e-mail updates

Scott's Contracting is available to provide Weatherization for your Home or Business, email: scottscontracting@gmail.com to schedule a Free Green Site Evaluation
http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.blogspot.com or http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.com

Many US Beaches the Oil Spill may Close

Sand barricade protecting Backwater lagoon in Gulf Shores, Ala

Sand now fills a pass that once led into a backwater lagoon in Gulf Shores, Ala., Tuesday, June 2, 2010. Workers filled the pass to keep any oil from getting into the lagoon. Oil from the Deepwater Horizon disaster has started washing ashore on the Alabama coast. (AP Photo/Dave Martin)

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Kamelia Angelova | Jun. 4, 2010, 12:12 PM | 200,990 |

While BP is struggling to stop the oil gushing from a broken pipe in the Gulf of Mexico, the spill is creeping to affect more areas in Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana. Cleanup in these areas will take years or decades, if the beaches are not lost forever.

See the affected areas here >