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Showing posts with label Green Build. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Green Build. Show all posts

8.02.2015

Natural Fiber Insulation Poll




Natural Hemp Insulation Hemp Wool Insulation http://www.hemp-technologies.com/page15/styled-29/page116.html
Natural Insulation Poll: Would you use it if it costs the same and has same R Value

InsulationPoll 


Natural Fiber Insulation: Same R Value and $ Monetary Cost.

Poll Question: Would You use it? 



Thank You for stopping by-Share and Comment below. If additional information in needed or you have a question let me know. Together we can make a difference and create a future that will benefit everyone. Build a Green StLouis Green Building Tips and Resources via: Scotty- St Louis Renewable Energy Green Blog
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2.19.2013

Creating Additional Seating and Stage-Shady Jacks Saloon

Build Notes Hardwood Floor Stage-Extra Seating 

Customer Must Haves

  • Create Additional Seating Area (64) for the Ever-Growing Lunch and Dinner Crowds
  • Build a New Stage for the Bands that play every Friday Night / Special Events
  • New Stage and Seating Area must match existing Decor

Build Notes

  • Up-cycled Flooring Materials-from previous projects and from left overs on prior projects in the Bar.

  • Stage Constructed of 2x12 Framing at 16 in OC with 3/4 Plywood Sheeeting
  • Clear Floor Finish


Stage Framing Complete 


Installing the Wood Floor Design




 

Clear Floor Finish
Applying Clear Floor Finish



 

Shady Jack-Owner Shady Jacks Saloon and Grill
Downtown St Louis MO
https://www.shadyjackssaloon.com




Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotts Contracting- St Louis Home Improvement Projects and Energy Reducing Needs Get Your Green Building Tips and Resources at St Louis Renewable Energy Green Blog

12.25.2012

Simple Diagram explaining how a Passive Solar...


Scotts Contracting shared an album with you.
Simple Diagram explaining how a Passive Solar Roof Overhang keeps the Hot Afternoon Sun from Entering a Home via a window in the west wall of a home.  While allowing the Winter Time Suns warmth into the Home.  Both of which supply Natural Daylight for the room.  by Scotty +Scotts Contracting 
View album
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2.23.2012

Green Deck Repair Photos

Saving a Deck from the Landfill by bringing existing deck up to current building codes.  See the CAD Drawings needed for the St Louis Building Permit office to follow.  Action Photos of the Deck Rebuild will post soon.






Action Photos will be posting Daily until Project is completed.  Scotty



Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotty for any Home Improvement Projects or Energy Reducing Needs and Scotty, Scotts Contracting will respond ASAP.

1.21.2012

How To Add Curb Appeal and Save on Home Energy Needs

Power Point Presentation of how Incorporating Green Building Practices can 

Add Curb Appeal and Save on Home Energy Use

Both of which will Add Value to your Home in Comfort and Appraisal Value

This Wrap Around Porch was 

Designed and Built by Scotty, Scotts Contracting

The Final Photos will be added soon!









Thank you for stopping by St Louis Renewable Energy. Feel free to comment in the section below or contact Scotty for any Home Improvement Projects or Energy Reducing Needs for your Home or Business in the Greater St Louis Area and Scotty, Scotts Contracting will respond ASAP.

8.19.2011

Go green with your building project




– How to build your green building business 


In the building industry, green business is the only good news that is left for the consumers. Are you a promoter who is looking for constructing buildings and still struggling within the sluggish market conditions? Though traditional buildings may no more seem to be a hot cake anymore, you must try your luck in going green. Sustainable business firms can boost your profits as it has been said that getting into green building can certainly boost your income during tough economic times. Here are some green home building tips that you must consider if you're interested in going green with your building.

1. Do enough research: Every salesman wants to know about the most important skill that he may need in order to make extra profits. You have to make a market research so that you get to know what the actual things are that are needed in order to boost their profits. See what your competitors are doing so that you may get an idea regarding your faults and try to make your weaknesses your strengths.

2. Know what is selling in the market: The recession has got a very diverse impact on every part of the economy and you must make sure that you clearly know what are the products that are selling in the market so that you may comprehend the inabilities of the market and the according steps that you're supposed to take in order to make the most out of the market situations.

3. Specialize in the subject: When you're looking for ways to start off with green home building, you must always make sure that you specialize in this particular field so that you do not fall short of ideas that can make your building a sustainable one. You must get to know all the details that can help you with the business project and make you earn better returns.

4. Get yourself certified: After you have all the plans in your head, you need to get yourself certified and getting the Green Advantage certificate is a necessity. Remember that doing green things doesn't make your house green and thus you have to be a witty and a better builder in order to be a true green builder.

Therefore, if you're planning a sustainable home building project, make sure you follow the tips mentioned above. Every bank and financial is adopting green methods so as to save money and energy. Green building is an important way of handling your talent and using it to its best.

 Article by: Mr Peter Harper
Regards,
Peter Harper
Marketing Head & Editor
Chicago, Illinois – 60607, USA
Phone :  9167458161
Skype name : peterharper99
mail : peterharper99@gmail.com
Guest Post provided by Scotts Contracting


11.16.2010

New Solar Roofing Option is Win-Win

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 9:13 AM, Scott's Contracting <scottscontracting@gmail.com> wrote:

A Roof that: Generates Electricity is a Win-Win for Generating Clean Electricity and Protecting your Home-Scotty

Does your Shingle Roof need Replaced? Consider a Roofing Shingle that also creates Electricity.  The new DOW POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle Received UL Certification as a Roofing Material that creates Clean Green Energy via the Integrated Solar Photovoltaic Electricity Producing System. 

The DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ solar shingle has chosen thin-film CIGS (Copper Indium Gallium deSelenide) as the PV material in the Solar Shingle to convert the Suns Rays into use-able Electricity for your Home and Business.

DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ solar shingle will become available to the US public mid 2011.  Till then Scotts Contracting will be researching the Electrical Out-Put, Efficiency, and Other variables that are needed to determine if the Solar Shingle is a cost-effective option for your Integrated Roofing and Solar Photovoltaic Project. 


Prior Articles Here:
Oct 19, 2010-$1 billion investment Dow Chemical announced last February it is making to build a manufacturing plant in Michigan for its shingle-integrated solar PV technology.


DOW POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingles Receive UL Certification


© Business Wire 2010
2010-11-02 13:12:32 -

Today, The Dow Chemical Company (NYSE: DOW) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) announced that the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle is the first residential solar roofing shingle with an integrated connection system to receive Underwriters Laboratories (UL) safety certification.

The DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle is a ground-breaking photovoltaic solar panel in the form of a solar roofing shingle that can be integrated into rooftops with standard asphalt shingle materials. It reduces installation time and complexity using a revolutionary system design that eliminates on-roof wiring, minimizes through-roof penetrations, and allows the product to be installed in the same manner as a standard roofing shingle.


"The receipt of UL safety certification represents the successful completion of a rigorous and comprehensive multi-test process for the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingles," said Dow Solar Vice President, Jane Palmieri.

"This is another important milestone towards the planned 2011 commercialization of Dow's solar shingles, and represents a
crucial third-party validation of the safety of this product.


We are dedicated to making solar easy for homeowners, builders, and roofing contractors who already trust the performance and safety of building products bearing the Dow brand."

Given the new and unique nature of the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle, Dow Solar worked closely with UL - a trusted global resource for product safety certification and compliance solutions - to indentify a series of rigorous tests to assess the safety of the unique design and of all the elements of the combined solar and roofing product. The final listing awarded to the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingles represents compliance to a diverse sequence of UL's safety and building standards, specifically, UL 746, 1703, 1897, 790, 486 and 514. Over 50 individual tests were conducted to assess the safety of the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingles against building code standards, including wind and fire resistance, and electrical code requirements, such as proper wiring and photovoltaic (PV) connections.

"UL has been leading the development of PV equipment testing methodologies and standards since the 1980s, and has contributed to the safe operation of PV equipment by providing safety testing and certification services for PV equipment manufacturers worldwide," said Jeff Smidt, Vice President and General Manager for UL's Global Energy business. "In the case of Dow's solar shingles, we had to take a unique approach in order to test the product as both a roofing shingle and a PV system. We are proud to provide the UL mark to this first-of-its-kind solar shingle from Dow."

In addition to the vitally important design and material safety tests performed by UL, Dow will continue with its own reliability and durability testing in support of commercialization. Dow is currently performing tests on installed systems of DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingles in addition to individual shingles in order to assess the durability of the product, utilizing Design for Reliability and Physics of Failure methodologies to measure performance against weather, extreme temperatures and more.

Dow has chosen thin-film CIGS (Copper Indium Gallium deSelenide) as the PV material in the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ solar shingle, and Global Solar Energy (Tucson, AZ) was selected as the preferred supplier in support of the product launch. CIGS technology offers the best balance of low cost and highest sunlight conversion efficiency of the commercialized thin film technologies available today, and the flexible foil substrate of the Global Solar Energy CIGS cells provides the necessary level of flexural durability to allow the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle to perform reliably in a demanding application environment.

Breaking the traditional barriers to residential solar adoption – complexity, affordability and aesthetics – this technology offers the missing link needed by the energy industry to drive solar adoption across the U.S., and will bring the possibility of safe and reliable solar power to American households. The DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle is expected to be commercially available in select U.S. markets by mid 2011.



About DOW™ POWERHOUSE™

In 2007, Dow received a $20 million grant from the U.S. Department of Energy as part of its Solar America Initiative to develop "building integrated" solar arrays for the residential and commercial markets. In October 2009, Dow Solar unveiled the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle as the first in a portfolio of building related solar energy generating products.

Since its introduction, the Solar Shingle has been hailed as revolutionary, including being named one of the "50 Best Inventions of 2009" by TIME magazine.


The innovative product design provides an unprecedented integrated roof appearance and simplified installation. It combines a roofing shingle with a solar cell, enabling the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle to be installed by a roofer along with standard asphalt roofing materials.

This makes the DOW™ POWERHOUSE™ Solar Shingle an easy choice for homeowners looking for a residential solar solution that is easy to install and aesthetically pleasing. Building Integrated Photovoltaic (BIPV) products from Dow Solar are evidence that Dow is focused on developing energy alternatives and expanding Dow's commitment to use chemistry to solve the world's energy challenges. More information about Dow Solar can be found at www.dowsolar.com : .


About Dow

Dow combines the power of science and technology with the "Human Element" to passionately innovate what is essential to human progress.

The Company connects chemistry and innovation with the principles of sustainability to help address many of the world's most challenging problems such as the need for clean water, renewable energy generation and conservation, and increasing agricultural productivity. Dow's diversified industry-leading portfolio of specialty chemical, advanced materials, agrosciences and plastics businesses delivers a broad range of technology-based products and solutions to customers in approximately 160 countries and in high growth sectors such as electronics, water, energy, coatings and agriculture. In 2009, Dow had annual sales of $45 billion and employed approximately 52,000 people worldwide. The Company's more than 5,000 products are manufactured at 214 sites in 37 countries across the globe. References to "Dow" or the "Company" mean The Dow Chemical Company and its consolidated subsidiaries unless otherwise expressly noted. More information about Dow can be found at www.dow.com : .



®TM Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company ("Dow") or an affiliated company of Dow





For editorial information:Greg BaldwinThe Dow

Chemical Company+1 989 638-0745 gbaldwin@dow.com : mailto:gbaldwin@dow.com orChris
GramsGolinHarris+1 312 729-4364 cgrams@golinharris.com : mailto:cgrams@golinharris.com orKate
NigroDow Solar+1 989 638 9629 knigro@dow.com : mailto:knigro@dow.com




--
Scott's Contracting
scottscontracting@gmail.com
http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.blogspot.com
http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.com
scotty@stlouisrenewableenergy.com

10.25.2010

Green Building Tips-Long Haul Durability

Green Building Priority #6 – Ensure Durability

Number 6 in my list of the top-10 green building priorities is to ensure that the home is durably built or renovated.

Posted on Oct 13 by Alex Wilson

A green home should last a long time. Living in a timber-frame home in Dummerston, Vermont that was built in 1785 and having grown up in a log home in Berwyn, Pennsylvania that was built in 1710 (three centuries ago this year), I think a lot about durability. It shocks me to realize that some of the homes being built today are designed for just a fifty-year lifespan. I feel that homes should last a minimum of 500 years. My friend (and leading building science expert) Joe Lstiburek once told me that a well-designed home today should last 1,000 years.

Creating durable homes involves a two-part effort: the first is designing it right with proper construction details; the second is selecting durable products and materials.

Use construction details that control moisture

Careful design and construction is the top priority in creating a more durable home—and often the most important issue is how we manage moisture. This is a big part of the focus of "building science." The building enclosure (walls, foundation, roof) has to be designed to a) keep moisture out, and b) allow any moisture that does get in to dry out. As we have made our homes tighter and better-insulated over the past several decades, this has become even more important. (The leaky, unheated homes our grandparents built could easily dry out because air readily flowed through the walls.)

Building science is a complex field that is evolving quickly as we learn more about moisture and air movement through buildings and building assemblies—far beyond the scope of this column. But here are some examples that will help to illustrate the concept:

  • Provide deep roof overhangs to keep moisture away from the walls and foundation.
  • Provide good drainage around the foundation, and slope the ground away from the house.
  • Always provide a "drainage plane" or "rain screen" when designing and building walls. This air space between the siding and sheathing allows siding to dry out between rain events and prevents water vapor from being driven into the wall cavity from the exterior.
  • Properly flash around windows and other wall and roof penetrations. Specialized flashing products are available to make this process a lot easier than it used to be.
  • Provide an "air barrier" in the building enclosure that blocks air flow. Experts used to suggest a "vapor barrier," but blocking airflow is more important than stopping vapor diffusion. An air barrier can still be vapor-permeable, allowing moisture to escape over time.
  • Avoid moisture sources in the home (for example, provide quiet bathroom fans that will be used while showering, install an outside-venting range hood fan, and in humid climates insulate even cold water pipes to prevent condensation).

Select durable products and materials

Along with design and construction, the products and materials we install in a home can influence durability. We focus a lot of attention on selecting green building materials (see my #8 priority). When a product has high recycled content, for example, it not only reduces the energy and environmental impacts of extracting the raw materials that would otherwise be required, but it also helps keep material out of the waste stream. In my opinion, though, it's an even higher priority to use very durable materials.

If material A will last three times as long as material B, we have three times as long to amortize the environmental impacts that were involved in producing that material. So even if material A took twice the energy to produce, our selection of that material will have a net benefit over the long term.

Fiber-cement siding, for example, costs a lot more than vinyl siding, but it should last a lot longer. The same goes with high-quality, standing-seam metal roofing or slate shingles, compared with asphalt shingles. There is usually a higher up-front cost for more durable materials, but that extra cost is repaid over the long term—both monetarily and environmentally.

Hire someone with expertise in building science

Very connected to the above two priorities, relative to durability, is to hire someone with expertise in building science. This applies equally to new construction and remodeling. It's complicated—and it's important that your designer and contractor understand what's involved in building (or remodeling) a home in a way that will keep it going strong for hundreds of years.

-- Scott's Contracting scottscontracting@gmail.com http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.blogspot.com http://www.stlouisrenewableenergy.com scotty@stlouisrenewableenergy.com

10.20.2010

Home Foundation Repair-Basic Guide-Stone/Rock Foundation

Home Foundation Repair: The Basics 

Green builders and home preservationists have a common goal: conservation. If you're looking to bring an older home up to modern standards of green building, you'll need to understand the basics of fixing a home's foundation, and what can cause foundation failure.



Old homes were designed with structural logic much different from today's. New homes are designed with strict adherence to the lumber sizing and spans listed in the building code. Old homes were built with common sense, logic and feel. Most homes built between 1880 and 1930 were built on inferior footing. These old footings offer foundation walls little support, which then may support often overspanned joists and girders. Historic home foundations were subject to improper load calculation, inferior footings and substandard mortar. Old framing systems can be vastly over- or under-built. Each is a potential point of failure. It is crucial to understand such risks during a rehabilitation.

Structural failure is a phrase that scares the average Joe. Unfortunately, most structures subject to a century of seasonal expansions, water, humans, animals, deferred maintenance, improper storage and poor footings are destined to have some structural issues that need to be addressed. Combine construction flaws, time and the dreadful soil of central North Carolina, and it's rare that I see an old home that doesn't have some sort of structural problem. Structural issues can all be addressed, however, and most are simple (but laborious) fixes.

The structure of a building is formed by foundation and framing.

The foundation is a structure that transfers loads to earth. It keeps earth and wood apart. The concept is simple: A house is heavy, so a foundation spreads that load over an area suitable for the earth to handle. The average two-story Queen Anne Victorian weighs between 30 and 60 tons, enough for three 20-ton jacks to support the whole thing (theoretically, but don't try it at home).


The framing forms the structure, defines separate rooms and carries the floor, wall and roof loads to the foundation.


I'll discuss the most common foundation and framing techniques, common problems and how each is typically fixed. I'll also discuss basic preservation and sustainability issues related to the structure.

Footings and Foundations

Footing and Foundations are constructed of footings and foundation walls. A footing is the belowground mass, generally made of concrete or brick, that supports the foundation wall. It is sized to transfer the weight of the entire structure to ground. A footing must sit on stable soil and not backfill, which compresses easily. If the soil is not stable, the footing is more likely to fail. Today footings are eight inches wider than the wall or pier they support (e.g., a 12-inch-wide wall requires a 20-inch-wide footing) and deep enough to sit below the frost line, the depth at which groundwater is expected to freeze in a respective climate.

Footing construction varies greatly on old homes. Larger stately homes may well be on large and well built footings, though it would be rare to find the metal reinforcing bar (rebar) required today. Many houses sit on a soldier course, which is nothing more than an extra course of bricks at the bottom of the brick pier or foundation wall. Soldier courses are commonly found above the frost line and are prone to mortar breakdown, especially under pressure of water.




The foundation wall carries loads from the exterior sill beam framing to the footing. Piers support interior girders and are made of a variety of materials — stone, masonry and poured-in-place concrete are all common. Mortar joints offer little resistance to unbalanced lateral forces (such as a backfilled basement wall), so tall, thin, unreinforced masonry curtain walls are prone to failure.


The foundation wall also defines the area underneath the main living space. In the northern United States, basements are common, while in the South, crawl spaces are more typical. A below-grade basement or crawl space is intrinsically unstable and problematic; the pressures of earth and groundwater are predisposed to assault its footing and wall. Based on their porosity, soils hold and shed varying amounts of water. The basement floor can actually be below the water table, most likely in spring when snow is melting both on the roof and ground.


Water causes nearly all problems in foundations. Water against a foundation wall exerts hydrostatic pressure — water trying to get from areas of high pressure (poor draining soil) to areas with less (your basement). Frost heave happens when water freezes in poorly draining soil, then expands and pushes the footing, foundation and house upward. Any footing above the frost line will rise and fall with the freeze thaw cycle. Typical frost lines vary from four feet in Maine to less than a foot in the Southeast, and footings must be at least as deep as the frost line to avoid frost heave. The best solutions for water problems are to grade, divert roof runoff, dampproof or waterproof the foundation.


Grading refers to the slope of earth around the foundation. Code requires a 5 percent slope to 6 feet around the foundation, and many old homes fail this bench mark. Any place where a slope does not meet such grade is subject to water problems. Solutions include swales, which create a low point six to 12 feet from the foundation to capture water, and French drains, a subsurface swale covered with perforated pipe and drainage gravel, allowing surface grading to remain unaltered.

RE: Roof runoff (rainwater) is diverted away from the foundation by either gutters or proper grading. In cold climates gutters cause ice dams which can result in roof leaks and eave damage, which is why some forgo gutters in favor of ground-based drainage often involving plastic water barrier protection covered with decorative gravel or a continuous pitched concrete grade.

 

Dampproofing keeps most water out of the foundation, but allows water through in a torrential rain. A perforated pipe is set just below the exterior of the footing, sloped to direct water away via gravity or sump pump.A dampproofing approach may or may not include a latex waterproofing paint on the foundation wall, now required by many local ordinances on new construction.


Waterproofing keeps all water from entering the foundation and is necessary if using the basement as finished space. It is much more involved than dampproofing. Waterproofing can be done inside or outside the foundation wall; it's better to stop water before it enters the structure though that does requires a more expensive exterior waterproofing. First, a thick, impermeable dimple sheet is installed to keep water out of the foundation. Next, just below the footing, a perforated pipe is set which captures groundwater and drains it to either daylight or a sump pump. A sump pump is used to remove water accumulated in a sump pit, commonly placed at the low point in a basement, crawl space or exterior.


Bentonite clay is a natural waterproofing material that functions by suspending water in a gelatinous form. Less natural but more common is extruded polystyrene foam board insulation (XPS), which is a cheap and common detail on new foundations, particularly in northern climates. It is nonpermeable (except at its seams), helping resist water infiltration.



It's important to differentiate between problems caused by surface water runoff and a high water table. The first can be fixed rather simply, the latter may be impossible. High water tables enter the structure through the wall and the basement floor. Concrete is porous, and no match for such pressure. Today, vapor barriers of 4- or 6-millimeter-thick polyethylene are installed under slabs and are an excellent tool against such an assault. Old homes won't have such a barrier. A possible fix is to install a vapor barrier and pour a new slab. Still, while it's feasible to waterproof a new footing and all its transition points it's nearly impossible to waterproof an old footing. Footing drains outside should relieve some of the pressure, but not all. If there is evidence of a high water table, it's recommended that you leave the basement unfinished. Finished basements require a 100 percent success rate against water, and the costs to insure such a rate would be too excessive.



Lastly, a wet basement can occasionally be caused by a blocked drain tile, failed sewer or stormwater line. Unfortunately, private lines are not easily explored by anything short of excavation. Plumbers do have pipe camera tools that can avert a major dig, though many are cautious about sending an expensive piece of equipment up a pipe with an unknown blockage.

House Jacking

Fixing the foundation, or rebuilding it entirely, requires the temporary transfer of the house's loads above in order to perform the work. Holding the house consists of temporarily lifting the load-bearing girders or sills on a portion of the house just enough to remove failed members. One-half inch is usually enough. Raising the house consists of lifting the entire house at once. One foot elevation to an entire story is typical. Raising strategies might be considered when a usable basement is desired in tandem with major foundation reconstruction. The house may be raised as much as eight to ten feet to allow for the addition of a new floor below.



The merits of permanently raising a house are an ongoing debate in the preservation community. An argument that the house must be raised to ensure its longevity as a healthy structure makes a stronger case than arguing it must be raised because the owner wants a game room. Generally speaking, lifting the house significantly disrupts the streetscape by creating an unusually tall structure, particularly so if raising more than a few feet. In New Orleans, of course, it's argued that raising houses is necessary now to survive potential future flooding, so the debate continues.



It also is impossible to raise a house without reconstruction of chimneys, since the practice will throw all your hearths off elevation. Floors are raised while chimneys are not. Balloon-framed homes can be more difficult to jack than platform-framed structures. Since a balloon-framed floor may be tacked onto the studs with nothing more than a few nails, jacking up the floor may lift only the floor system, while not lifting the walls. To correct this, jacking may be required from the inside and out, and sometimes a temporary wall between floors is needed to ensure the whole structure rises in tandem.

New Foundation Construction

 

After the house has been lifted, a new foundation wall can be built. Often a pier and curtain wall will be replaced by a continuous masonry wall made of either brick, CMU block or both. Wood wicks water from masonry, which is why building codes now specify that any wood in contact with masonry now must be pressure-treated. If a new foundation wall is supporting an existing non-treated sill, termite protection should be installed — either pressure-treated wood or a termite flashing made of 20 gauge aluminum. Be sure to install sleeves for utilities. Short PVC stubs suffice for electric, water and HVAC lines.


As with all exterior features, try to match any foundation detailing. If the piers protruded beyond the curtain wall on the exterior, or had some masonry corbelling for example, it would be good to restore that detail. I've found preservation boards to be reasonably flexible so long as the old foundation wasn't extremely distinctive.


Additional Links:

Foundation walls are usually made of poured concrete or stacked concrete block, materials that reinforce the feeling of the basement as a secondary space. To give the basement main-floor style, cover the concrete with your choice of ...
Your basement is basically a box of porous concrete, buried in wet ground, and when that ground gets saturated with water, the resulting hydrostatic pressure pushes the water against the foundation walls. That water will eventually find ...
Rock Foundation Repair and Water Proofing PhotosScotts Contracting Job Site Photos
This page contains various job sites photos of projects .

Scotts Contracting performs the repairs needed in our City's Typical Rock Foundations found on a Large Percent of City Dwellings. Addresses Below to email scotty for a free estimate on your next project.


 Newly added Basement Photos: 

Friday, October 22, 2010


Basement Conversion Photos 

Friday, October 22, 2010


Basement Remodeling Photos-Basement Design Photos

Friday, October 22, 2010


Before and After Fireplace Photos

--
Scott's Contracting
scottscontracting@gmail.com


9.11.2010

Spray Foam- Insulation That Works-Photos Included

Scotts Contracting is available to assist in your Home and Business Insulation Needs.  I even have a Local Supplier / Manufacturer of Spray Foam Insulation- This Insulation is Soy-based Which is Green and Eco Friendly- Many of Our Missouri Farmers Grow Soybeans!!! Support our Missouri Farmers !!!  Click Here to email Scotts Contracting to Schedule a Free Green Site Inspection.

The Following Article is a Follow Up to the Prior Posts about Spray Foam Insulation from these Posts Below




    Spray foam insulation is all the rage because of its
    effectiveness at sealing a building, but builders complain
     that the added cost is significant. Because First Coast
    implemented sealing procedures, the company sticks with fiberglass ...


    Instead, he uses 2 x 6 studs, spray foam
    insulation
    , and metal bracing to make the
    studs rigid. "The studs are energy highways,"
    he says. He then wraps his houses
     in 1.5 inches of foam board, which creates a thermal break. ...


    Seal for Leaks with, caulking and
     spray foam, from anything that is
    sticking out of your Home. This could
    come from the Air Conditioning Unit,
    various wires for Telephone and Cable
    lines. The Power Line or Electric Line. ...

    Certain materials used to seal these
     leaks—such as caulk, spray foam,
    or weatherstripping—can qualify for
    federal tax credits. "It's something that
    homeowners can do easily," Thull says.
     "And there are a lot of different products out ...

    Insulation That Works

    With closed-cell spray foam, the benefits go way beyond R-value

    by Steve Easley

    These days, it's not an exaggeration to say that almost all homeowners expect their homes to be durable, energy efficient, safe, and comfortable. But this is especially true in coastal markets that cater to high-end clients who demand supreme quality and impeccable performance from their homes. Even in today's markets, which are euphemistically described as "relaxing," there seems to be no shortage of wealthy home buyers snapping up second-home properties along the coveted coast. If you build in this market, it's this kind of discriminating home buyer who will most expect you to get things right.

    In more than 25 years of consulting with builders on ways to reduce callbacks, I've spent most of my time solving problems related to heat and moisture transfer through buildings, because this is often where builders — even very good builders who deliver well-appointed homes to the coastal elite — get things wrong. Most of the serious (read "expensive") performance failures are moisture related, and a good number of these are closely tied to the thermal performance of the home. Yet I am surprised how often the insulation is installed without much thought or understanding about how it works. Consequently, very little attention gets paid to the details that really matter. Typically, fiberglass — selected as the least expensive option up front — is jammed in the walls and stuffed around electrical wires, plumbing pipes, and HVAC ducts, then covered up as soon as the municipality allows. The result is gaps, compression, and hollow voids that compromise occupant comfort and increase the building's energy loads. A sloppy insulation job can also lead to moisture problems by creating thermal conditions in walls and ceilings that promote condensation, wetting, mold growth, and rot.


    Batt insulation works best when it is fully lofted, not jammed into the tight spaces (above). Compression of the batt reduces the number of air pockets that provide the material's insulation value. It also leaves a hollow between the insulation and the drywall, creating areas where air can circulate. These voids can siphon off energy and may create conditions for condensation and moisture problems.

    Bright Star
    The updated Energy Star label for homes provides a quality standard that can guide builders away from these problems. New program requirements have raised the level of quality in the program, making it a label that savvy home buyers will more likely be looking for. As of January 1, 2007, a home that qualifies for an Energy Star label must pass a "thermal bypass inspection": a rigorous assessment of a home's air barrier. The bypass inspection requires builders to follow the EPA's Thermal Bypass Inspection Checklist — a 25-point list of details aimed at stopping the movement of heat around or through the insulation. Thermal bypasses — the defects that most commonly reduce the energy performance and comfort of homes — typically result from missing or compressed insulation, missing air barriers, and gaps between the air barrier and the insulation.


    The Energy Star Thermal Bypass Inspection Checklist must be completed by a certified home energy rater. However, in order for a home to qualify for the Energy Star label, up to six items may be verified by the builder to minimize required field trips by the rater.

    In my opinion, this checklist is one of the best guidelines to come out of the EPA's Energy Star program, and I think it substantially raises the bar for thermal and moisture performance of building envelopes. Of particular value to builders, the 86-page Thermal Bypass Checklist Guide (available free online at www.energystar.gov; search "Thermal Bypass Guide") provides a very practical and comprehensive look at reducing air infiltration. It should be required reading for anyone who's serious about building a quality home in any climate, but especially in demanding coastal climes.




    Living Spaces Over Garages
    Living spaces over garages create conditions that demand careful attention to insulating the floor. Yet it is difficult to support the insulation in this cavity, and oftentimes the insulation falls onto the garage ceiling. This separation between the insulation and the living space floor creates a thermal bypass that compromises the value of the insulation. Air easily infiltrates in at the band-joist area over the top of the insulation, which scavenges away heat. This often freezes plumbing pipes, creates cold floors, and can lead to major mold and water damage. Builders often try to solve the problem by supplying forced-air heat near the plumbing, but this only succeeds in pressurizing the space with warm, humid air. As this air exfiltrates through the exterior cracks, it can condense and lead to even worse moisture and mold problems at the band-joist areas.


    The issues are easily solved with ccSPF, which sticks to the bottom of the subfloor so insulation and air barrier are always in contact. The foam also stops air infiltration. It is a good idea to wrap any plumbing with a thin layer of fiberglass insulation before spraying foam over it to make servicing the plumbing easier.

    An Insulation for All Reasons
    I've included in this article a short catalog of some of the problem areas addressed on the Thermal Bypass Inspection Checklist that I find are frequently missed.

    What stands out about all of these problem points is that they can be difficult to get right with inexpensive fiberglass insulation unless a builder is working with an experienced and service-minded insulation crew. However, these problems are easily avoided when using closed-cell spray foam (ccSPF) insulation. This alone provides a strong argument for always using ccSPF, but it's certainly not the only reason.

    There are many reasons why ccSPF makes particularly good sense in a coastal home:

    • It has a high R-value of 6.5 to 7 per inch.
    • It absorbs a negligible amount of water. It can even be used as an effective secondary rain barrier and is the only FEMA-approved insulation for flood-resistant construction.
    • It does a good job of controlling diffusion.
    • It has good air barrier qualities to reduce airflow into and out of wall cavities.
    • It expands to fill voids in hard-to-
    insulate areas.
    • It provides some structural integrity to the frame (see "The Structural Properties of Foam," page 26).

    Steve Easley
    is principal of Steve Easley Associates, a company based in Danville, Calif., that provides building-science training and quality assurance for builders nationwide. All photos by the author.



    Attic Knee Walls
    These are areas where the insulation on the back side of unsheathed walls is exposed to outdoor temperatures and airflow. They are often adjacent to ventilated attic areas. The Energy Star Thermal Bypass Inspection Checklist requires that an air barrier be placed on all sides of the insulation. This means that the back sides of knee walls need to be sheathed and sealed. Thin-profile cardboard sheathing with ccSPF works well here. Since ccSPF is air impermeable, the insulation does not have to fill the entire cavity, and it meets the air barrier requirement. Some codes require R-19 insulation, which is difficult to do in a 3 1/2-inch space with batt insulation, but 2 inches of ccSPF provides about R-19.5.





    Sloping Roof Areas
    The sloping areas in a cathedral ceiling can be the sites for significant thermal bypasses. These areas are not only difficult to insulate but are difficult to ventilate. Yet ccSPF solves both problems. Placing ccSPF directly on the underside of the roof deck also creates a secondary rain barrier, and because of ccSPF's high R-value and low permeability, moisture is not likely to condense on its surface, eliminating the need for cavity ventilation.







    Band-Joist Areas
    The band-joist area is typically a major site for air infiltration. These areas are usually very poorly insulated, causing one of the most significant thermal bypass areas. If the home is under a positive pressure (air pushing out from inside) in a heating climate, the air is likely to be at a high humidity level. This can cause frost, and eventually mold, to build up on the back side of the band joist. In a cooling climate that is under negative pressure (air pulled inward — a condition that's commonly caused by leaky HVAC ducts), this can pull hot, humid air from outside, where it is likely to condense and lead to mold problems. The sealing properties of ccSPF will reduce these air-infiltration and energy-loss problems in this troublesome area.





    Attic and Crawlspace Bypasses
    Attic and crawlspace bypasses are penetrations into the living spaces. Pipes, ducts, flues, and electric wires are the most common reason for these penetrations, and the best way to seal them is often (but not always) with ccSPF. Because ccSPF expands and seals, it does an excellent job of filling voids that allow conditioned air to escape. However, ccSPF should not be used to seal around high-temperature areas such as combustion appliance flues.




    The Structural Properties of Foam

    Recent research conducted at the University of Florida has demonstrated that closed-cell spray foam (ccSPF) applied to the underside of roof decking effectively bonds the sheathing to the framing, significantly increasing uplift resistance. The study, conducted by Dr. David O. Prevatt and funded by Honeywell and Huntsman, two makers of ingredients that go into ccSPF, found that 3 inches of the foam sprayed between framing members provided a threefold increase in uplift resistance as compared with traditionally installed roof sheathing panels. While these results sound impressive, Dr. Prevatt points out that the increase provides the same benefits as increasing the nailing schedule to a 6/6 schedule (every 6 inches along panel edges and every 6 inches in the field) from the usual 6/12 schedule. What was perhaps most impressive is that using only spray foam to glue the sheathing to the framing provided almost as much resistance (178 to 209 psf) to uplift as does 8d common nails (205 psf) installed at the 6/6 schedule. This suggests what may be the biggest structural advantage of a foamed roof assembly — reducing the likelihood of a roof blowoff when the sheathing doesn't get nailed off with enough nails or when too many nails miss their mark.


    A test panel (left) in a study at the University of Florida simulates a roof assembly consisting of 1/2-inch OSB fastened to 2x4 framing at 24-inch centers. The framing bays have been filled with closed-cell spray foam. During the study, the assembly was placed on a pressure chamber and a vacuum pump (above right) drew a vacuum that was increased in 15-psf intervals until the assembly failed and the sheathing popped off the framing. For the fully foamed assemblies, this occurred at around 240 psf. The assemblies that had ccSPF fillets installed failed at 160 psf. The assemblies with sheathing alone nailed only with nails (6/12 schedule) failed at about 75 psf.

    The uplift study also evaluated the benefit of installing a "fillet": a 3x5-inch bead of ccSPF in the corners between the sheathing and the roof framing. The fillet method effectively doubled the uplift resistance of the baseline assembly of 2x4 framing on 24-inch centers sheathed with 1/2-inch OSB nailed on a 6/12 schedule.

    The uplift study is one of several recent studies of the structural properties of ccSPF. Tests conducted by Building Science Corporation (BSC) to evaluate the impact resistance of wall systems showed that conventional wood-framed walls do not have the same impact resistance as impact-resistant windows. (That is, walls consisting of studs, 1/2-inch OSB sheathing, housewrap, and siding cannot sustain the impact required by the ASTM E1886 and E1996 missile test, which hurls a 9-pound 2x4 at 50 feet per second.) The only test panel in the BSC demonstration capable of resisting the required impact load included a layer of 1/2-inch OSB sheathing between 1-inch foam insulating sheathing and 2 inches of ccSPF sprayed between 2x6 studs. Surprisingly, BSC found that a wall with foam sheathing, housewrap, and ccSPF (no OSB) performed better in impact tests than a wall with housewrap and OSB sheathing.


    When a roof is not likely to be replaced anytime soon and the sheathing nailing can't be verified (on a tile roof in good condition, for example), contractors in Florida are beginning to employ the "fillet method." This practice uses closed-cell spray foam to help bond the roof sheathing to existing framing and provide a secondary water barrier.

    The BSC study notes that walls may not have to be built to the same standard as windows, despite these surprising results. When a window fails under impact, the resulting hole in the wall (the entire window) is relatively large, providing a big enough hole to internally pressurize a home, which often leads to catastrophic failure. When a wall fails, the zone of impact is marginally bigger than the impacting face of the projectile. Such an opening may not be large enough to have a catastrophic effect. — Clayton DeKorne


    Scotts Contracting is available to assist in your Home and Business Insulation Needs.  I even have a Local Supplier / Manufacturer of Spray Foam Insulation- This Insulation is Both Closed and Open Cell Soy-based That is Green and Eco Friendly. Click Here to email Scotts Contracting to Schedule a Free Green Site Inspection.

    Build Green Scotty


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    Additional details or schedule a Free Green Site Evaluation at: Scott's Contracting
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    9.08.2010

    Insulation-If Walls Could Talk Part 1

    If Walls Could Talk

    Insulation: A tougher code necessitates more remodeling training

    Roofing & Insulation
    Credit Available30% of cost (product only, no labor)
    $1,500 maximum for all improvements combined
    TimelineMust be "placed in service" (ready and available for use)
    Jan. 1, 2009 – Dec. 31, 2010
    Requirements
    Metal and Asphalt RoofsEnergy Star–qualified
    InsulationMeets 2009 IECC & Amendments
    Must be expected to last five years or have a two-year warranty
    Primary purpose must be to insulate. As of May 31, 2009, IRS has not ruled on SIPs or insulated siding, but it is believed that SIPs are eligible
    Provided by Scotts Contracting 


    Dollar for dollar, insulation and weatherization deliver more bang for their energy-efficiency buck than almost any home improvement. Happily for manufacturers and installers, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act's $1,500 tax credit can be applied, in theory, to a broad array of materials and methods — batts, spray foam, loose-fill; wraps, sealants, tapes, and flashing; even structural insulated panels — that are primarily designed to reduce the heat loss or gain of the nation's estimated 80 million underinsulated homes.
    On its surface, the insulation provision is simple: Homeowners can take a tax credit of 30% of the cost of materials only, to a maximum of $1,500, for insulation work performed this year and next. That's triple the credit available since 2005. The sum of the resulting "insulation material used in layers" must meet the R-values prescribed by the 2009 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).

    "We think the recovery bill is a great opportunity to move forward" toward a more energy-efficient housing stock, says Gary Nieman, vice president of government policy initiatives at Owens Corning, feature one of several insulation manufacturers that were interviewed for this article.

    Guardian Building Products' "customer base has expressed heavy interest in several areas of the ARRA," says Aaron Hock, national sales manager.
    Code of Conduct

    More on the Building Envelope

    Things start to get sticky with the IECC. Published by the International Code Council (ICC) and based on goals set by the U.S. Department of Energy, the 2009 IECC will produce 15% in energy-efficiency gains over the 2006 version, according to the DOE. (To purchase the 2009 IECC, go to www.iccsafe.org.

    Regarding insulation, the 2009 IECC is considerably tougher than the previous version, particularly in colder parts of the country, where R-values (thermal resistance) are now as high as 21 for wood frame walls, 38 for floors, and 49 for ceilings and attics. "The new code requirements make it tough for builders to do things as usual and still meet the code," says Bob Burgess, president of Accurate Insulation, in Upper Marlboro, Md., whose 65 installers work all over the mid-Atlantic region. This is especially true in remodeling, when insulation is sometimes compressed into small cavities, potentially compromising R-value.

    Numerous products meet the specified R-values, including fiberglass and cotton batt insulation with ratings of R-21 or higher that can be installed in a 2x6-framed wall cavity, plus several loose-fill products using fiberglass, cellulose, or other materials that can be installed behind netting in open framing or used to fill cavities in existing walls.

    Such products likely won't be as inexpensive as the old mainstays, however, or necessarily prove as easy to find, at least based on a few calls to building supply retailers.

    In some cases, in fact, meeting the prescribed R-values becomes almost cost-prohibitive. Ironically, it may even deter homeowners from choosing what many green remodeling advocates believe are the best (but most expensive) insulating products: water-based spray foams that expand to fill gaps and holes.

    "They're speaking batt language," says Laura Calfayan of Calfayan Construction and AirTight SprayFoam of Southeastern PA, in Huntingdon Valley. "If I were to spray R-38, I'm literally forcing people to spend more than they need to," she says, to achieve the same comfort effects that can be achieved with 2 inches of AirTight's water-based, closed-cell foam, whose continuous air barrier reduces energy use beyond its stated R-value of 7 per inch.

    Even so, business is up for spray foam companies. An Icynene product, for example, has a 3.7-per-inch R-value, allowing 2x6 walls insulated with it to meet the 2009 IECC in zones that require R-20.
    By mid-April, downloads of the Icynene manufacturer's certification statement (needed for tax documentation purposes) had risen by 68% since January, according to Teresa Crosato, the company's marketing communications supervisor.

    If homeowners must dig a bit deeper at the point of sale, that's the price of progress, says Darren Meyers, technical director of energy programs with the ICC. "[The 2009 IECC] is a paradigm shift because the nation and the home-building community have not understood how far behind our construction practices are. We've never had a call to action [to be very energy efficient]," he says. The DOE's goals, and the resulting code, are the call to action.


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    scottscontracting@gmail.com

    8.13.2010

    Residential Green Roofs

    Scotts Contracting is available for the building of your Green Roof.  Scotty is available to supply a Free Green Estimate for your Roofing Projects- large or small.  With more than 50 different Green Roofing options available at my preferred Roofing Supplier, RSG- Roofing Supply Group, in St Louis.  I can build a Green Roof on most every budget.

    Green House

    Green is a great in commercial roofing, but what about for residential roofing?


    Read more articles related to:


    Brett Hall/Joe Hall Roofing
    Source: REPLACEMENT CONTRACTOR Magazine
    Publication date: May 12, 2010

    By Jim Cory
    Ask a roofer what a green roof on a commercial building is and he probably has a clear idea of the options. It could be a vegetation roof installed on top of a water-proofing system or a roofing system designed to save on the cost of heating and cooling the building. Or it could be both. Many such systems exist because there's a market for them. Commercial building owners budget to replace their roofs on a regular basis, and reducing energy consumption, as well as prolonging the life of the roof and thus of the building, is always a goal.

    Residential Green

    But for residential steep-slope roofs, where exactly does green fit in? Obviously no one is going to plant a garden on a gable roof, since it would all slide off in the first hard rain. So is the concept of green roofing restricted to commercial roofing applications?
    In Naples, Fla., roofer Ken Kelly, president of Kelly Roofing, doesn't think so. He is convinced that green is the way to go with residential roofing customers, so much so that he puts green roofing front and center on the company website. "Commercial customers are the ones with the deep pockets," he says. "They can afford the $500,000 photovoltaic system or the 5,000-square-foot roof garden. But green is as big an issue in residential as it is in commercial roofing. Homeowners are asking more questions about green than our commercial customers." Driven by changes in the Florida building code and a desire to save on air conditioning bills, Kelly Roofing customers are amenable to suggestions that green products such as solar-powered attic fans be included in their re-roofing jobs.

    Interest, Awareness Vary by Market

    For those working on residential roofs, green means a new roof installed with attention paid to emissivity - the degree to which the roof reflects heat and sunlight away from the building - reduced energy consumption, and the recycling of tear-off materials. Different products, different practices. Once incorporated into a company's procedures, customers are often open to these. But cost remains an issue, and not all homeowners are open to green roofing or green roofing products.
    Roofers who attend trade shows and read trade magazines may know about green roofing products, but homeowners generally know little. "It hasn't taken off like it has in commercial," says Chris Kamis, owner of Absolute Roofing & Construction, in Parma, Ohio, which divides its business about evenly between commercial and residential jobs. Other companies find similar.
    "The customer never brings it up," notes Brett Hall, president of Joe Hall Roofing, a Pantego, Texas, company that also does both commercial and residential roofs. Hall says that it's up to him to introduce homeowners to the subject of cooling the roof with enhanced ventilation and different shingle colors. And if people are getting a new roof because they're planning to move, as is often the case, "it's not that popular a subject. Why invest in something when they can never recoup the cost?"

    Demonstrate by Example

    Customers may not know that much about the subject, but Absolute Roofing is no stranger to green. Five years ago the company installed the roofing, siding, and gutters at Eco-Village, a 20-townhouse pilot project sponsored by the city of Cleveland and partly funded with federal money. In that case, the cost of using green products was a factor in landing the company the job, but not the only factor.
    What was more important were LEED points earned by the builder/designer. And a year ago Absolute Roofing won the business of a Cleveland-area homeowner who required the bidders to show that they would recycle roofing tear-off. Absolute Roofing & Construction did so and won the job. But projects like these are rare. In many residential jobs, which make up 50% of the company's business, green for Absolute Roofing means installing shingles that absorb heat and are eligible for tax credits under the 2009-2010 American Recovery and Reinvestment Act.
    Kamis notes that one popular request in the green building line is rain barrels, which capture rainwater run-off and store it for reuse. Solar would be on the agenda, if the price put it within the average homeowner's reach. "Some people are a lot more sensitive about it than others," says Rod Menzel, co-owner of GreatWay Roofing, in Moorpark, Calif. "Some have the money to be environmentally friendly and green, and others don't."
    Kelly Roofing found that the suggestion of switching from a shingle to a metal or tile roof in a re-roofing job — the metal product the company installs qualifies for tax credits — met with great receptivity from homeowners once the cost of installing a roof with any of those materials became relatively similar. Because green is all over Kelly Roofing's website, "our customers are expecting us to mention green in our presentation and to follow that up with some sort of green product," Kelly says. The company, which does business in a market where failure to recycle shingle tear-off results in a $500 fine, has "Follow Me To The Recycling Center" painted on the back of all its trucks.

    Green in Increments

    Other green products popular with roofing and home improvement contractors include radiant heat barriers, which reduce heat transfer through the attic by as much as 95%. Menzel says that there are a number of roofing systems his company uses to reduce heating and cooling costs in commercial products ? far fewer in residential. "We use the Solaris shingle by CertainTeed," he says — an Energy Star-qualified product that meets both emissivity and reflectivity standards. GreatWay Roofing has also seen strong demand for those same solar-powered attic fans, a hot product at this year's International Roofing Expo in New Orleans. But when it comes to big-ticket green items — say renewable energy projects such as solar systems to power the house — most residential roofers hang back. "There are some awesome ideas out there," Kamis says. "But there's not enough interest to make them practical and affordable in the market."Other home improvement companies are looking at eco-friendly roofing products that can be installed without committing to the cost of a totally green roof. Matt Weiner, general manager of Moonworks, in Rhode Island, says that his company is looking at products such as reflective shingles, although "in the Northeast it doesn't make that much difference." What does intrigue him, he says, are photovoltaic cells that can be integrated into an asphalt shingle roof. "It's a way to bring a greener product to the marketplace and differentiate us," he says. And in the end, a means to greater profitability and a higher close rate.

    Not For the Faint of Heart

    Hall brings up the subject of green roofing to let prospects know what kind of upgrade options are available when buying a new roof. "When we're talking about green, we're talking about ways to conserve energy in your home that relate to roofing," he says. It's as simple as that. And in Texas, where shingle recycling facilities are few, if they exist at all, the major opportunity for green roofing is in increasing emissivity and energy loss, which is chiefly caused by the roof baking away while air conditioning bills go up, up, up. "In Texas, green is emissivity. That's where they start having some return on investment," Hall says.
    To prove the point, the president of Joe Hall Roofing decided to design the new home he is moving into this August with the greenest possible roof. That roof material is standing seam metal painted with a cool pigment. Underneath it is ice-and-water shield covering all the decking. Key to keeping the roof much cooler is the 1-inch pocket of air between that OSB decking and the 1-inch polyiso insulation panel. The roof system is fully vented, with removable soffit vents, for cleaning. The next step: a photovoltaic array on the roof.
    Besides radically reducing what would typically be a $1,000 a month air conditioning bill during the summer, Hall will use the house to show prospects what green roofing looks like, what it feels like, and how well it works.
    —Jim Cory, editor, REPLACEMENT CONTRACTOR.


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